For many foreigners, Mexico City invokes images of urban chaos,
choking air pollution and pervasive street crime. And it can be an
intimidating place for tourists, with maddeningly heavy traffic, a
confusing public transportation system and neighborhoods cut off from
each other by multi-lane highways plowed through the center of the city.
But the capital has changed radically in recent years, and almost
entirely for the better. Street crime and air pollution are down and the
city's central neighborhoods and parks are bustling, offering visitors
days, even weeks, worth of sightseeing and attractions, much of it free.
This time of year, Mexico City also makes a good jumping-off
destination for travelers heading to sunny beaches for winter getaways.
THE ZOCALO
The Zocalo was the center of the Aztec island empire that became
Mexico City after the Spanish conquest, and it remains the heart of the
capital. The massive open plaza is bounded by Mexico City's main
cathedral, along with the National Palace, which houses some federal
government offices, and the ruins of the Templo Mayor, which was the
central temple of the ancient Aztecs. Entrance to the cathedral and part
of the National Palace are free, and the Zocalo itself is filled with
open-air entertainment, with street vendors, painted Aztec dancers,
traditional healers and the occasional political demonstration all
competing for attention. Much of the surrounding historic center has
been renovated and rehabilitated in recent years, with good
window-shopping, architectural sightseeing and cafes offering a break
from the clamor of the Zocalo.
SOUMAYA MUSEUM
Another Mexico City can be seen in the ritzy Polanco neighborhood,
home to gleaming office towers, high-end restaurants and luxury
boutiques. On the northern edge of the neighborhood, billionaire Carlos
Slim has erected the mirrored, mushroom-shaped Soumaya museum, home to
six floors of Impressionists, Old Masters, Mexican muralists, anonymous
Mesoamerican craftsmen and hundreds of other works. Open daily, 10:30
a.m. to 6:30 p.m.
CHAPULTEPEC PARK
One of Mexico City's recent changes for the better is a growing
system of bike and pedestrian trails. The longest, an old railroad track
known as the Ferrocaril de Cuernavaca, stretches from the Soumaya
Museum into Chapultepec Park, Mexico's Central Park. It's a long walk
and stretches remain incomplete, but the energetic can make their way by
foot into Chapultepec, a park divided between shady stretches of forest
and more-developed plazas, fountains and sculpture gardens. On
weekends, the northern end is crammed with vendors, entertainers and
families out for the day. If you're lucky, you'll see a special patrol
of Mexico City policemen mounted on horseback, wearing broad sombreros
and toting revolvers. Open daylight hours, every day except Monday.
COYOACAN
A former village south of central Mexico City, this charming
neighborhood of cobblestone streets, brightly painted colonial houses
and tree-shaded plazas was home to Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and
hundreds of other artists over the decades. Easily reachable by public
transport, including the Viveros stop on the green No. 3 line (a ticket
costs 20 cents), Coyoacan offers hours of walking and drifting in and
out of art galleries and craft stores. Its central square, the Plaza
Hidalgo, is packed on weekends but still well worth a stop. Throughout
Coyoacan are kiosks offering free bicycle rentals; just leave an ID as a
deposit.
VIVEROS DE COYOACAN
Less developed than Chapultepec Park, Viveros is a combination tree
nursery and public park, with a popular jogging track around its edge.
Cool and lushly green, it's a great place to stroll, look at beds of
trees and flowers and people-watch. The eastern edge of the park
features an open-air gym and boxing area, with people sparring and
performing feats of strength like climbing ropes and lifting cement
blocks. Open daily 6 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment